CAPOSELE CLIMBING AREA – SAN VITO
The climbing routes of Caposele were established by Mountain Pro, led by Alpine Guide Oreste Bottiglieri, on the characteristic rock monolith that stands alone among the meadows and hills of the San Vito area. These routes are located on the walls that surround and “protect” the eponymous 17th-century chapel situated at the top of the rock, offering a panoramic position at an altitude of about 700 meters.
The routes ascend on compact and worked limestone, equipped with anchors, carabiners, and stainless steel 316 bolts with a diameter of 12mm, offering a good variety of grades for both experienced climbers and beginners. The “Grande Inverno” sector, facing south and east, was bolted in the spring of 2021 and is frequently exposed to the winds that channel through the underlying valley. The “Lancia del Sole” sector, bolted in the autumn of 2022 and expanded in the winter of 2024, faces south and west, and has been primarily constructed with resinous anchors and double carabiner anchors.
The “Grande Inverno” sector is ideal for climbing during warm periods. Due to the presence of trees adjacent to the routes, it is crucial to exercise maximum caution during the removal of quickdraws, especially on overhanging and traversing routes, to avoid dangerous pendulum swings towards the trees.
The “Lancia del Sole” sector, on the other hand, is suitable for climbing in all seasons.
Between the two main sectors, there is also the micro-sector “El Capiton,” consisting of two climbing routes primarily designed for educational purposes on a slab.
There is also a beautiful drinking water fountain, as well as a lovely picnic area.
SETTORE LANCIA DEL SOLE
It is the wall located beneath the Church of San Vito, adjacent to the picnic area and the fountain, facing south and west.
1.TOPI TOPI, 7c, 15m: overhanging prow.
2. QUADRIGLIA BATTICULO, 6a+, 18m: crack with a complicated exit.
3. MANNAIA ABOMBATOMICA, 6a, 13m: well-gripped slab and overhang.
4. L’AMBASSADOR DI MATERDOMINI, 6b, 15m: short but intense overhang.
5. GREEN UP, 5a+, 13m: sloping slab.
6. PIACERE, GERARDO, 5b+, 12m:well-gripped bulge at the start and slab.
7. PATATE SFRUCULIATE, 6b, 12m: technical wall with a slight overhang.
8. AMARETTI LOVERS, 6b+, 10m: crack and transitions.
9. MORGAN, 6a, 14m: overhang and easy slab.
10. IL SOSIA DI BUBBA, 6a+, 15m: overhanging crack and easy slab.
11. ASSEDIO AL CLERO, 5c, 13m: vertical start and sloping slab.
12. A BRACCETTO COL CLERO, 5a, 12m: slab traversing left.
13. SECHENENZA, 5b, 10m: slab.
14. L’ FÜICHE, 6b, 10m: wall with a slight overhang and edge.
15. ROCKY BISINISS, 6a+, 10m: exit move.
16. DI NASCOSTO DAL CLERO, 5b+, 12m: slab with an exit in a slight overhang.
17. IL TRAMPOLINO, 5b+, 15m: slab, dihedral, and small overhang. Make sure to secure at least 3 meters to the right of the first anchors.
18. COLLEGIO NAZIONALE FRAVECATORI, 4c, 12m: well-gripped slab. Make sure to stay to the right of the line of anchors.
MICROSECTOR EL CAPITON
19. TOMMAS CARDARELL, 4a, 7m: sloping slab and edge.
20. FREE SELE, 4b, 7m: sloping slab and small roof.
It faces east and south and is frequently exposed to the winds that channel through the valley below. Therefore, it is the ideal sector for climbing during warm periods. From left to right, we find:
21. MATASSE E CECI POWER, 7a, 12m: short but intense.
22. RUBIK, 7a+, 15 m: prima sezione tecnica e impegnativa, poi prese buone in leggero strapiombo.
23. SCANNETIELLO ROUTE, 7b, 15 m: bel muro leggermente strapiombante a tacche, buchi e lame.
24. NOROTH, 6a+, 15m: fessura e spigolo estetici.
24b. NOROTH L2, 6c, 18m: aesthetic crack and edge.
25. ACTION DITECT, 7c, 20m: muro a buchi, placca e tetto.
26. BLOCKCHAIN, 7a+, 25m: bella fessura strapiombante e placca.
27. IL MURO DELLE API, 8a+, 20m: muro estetico e in forte strapiombo.
28. MOUNTAIN SURFERS ITALY, 7b, 25m: muro a buchi continuo e strapiombante.
29. METRAVERSO, 7a+, 15 m: strapiombo e placca.
30. ALLA DESTRA DI SAN VITO, 6a, 15m: breve strapiombo iniziale e traverso tecnico a sinistra.
31. LO STEMMA CAPOVOLTO, 5c, 15m: traverso e placca verticale su buone prese.
32. SCHDDHCHEIA, 5c, 15m: placca a buchi con bombamento finale.
33. L’OMBELICO DI VENERE, 5c+, 12m: placca verticale a buchi svasi.
34. PIAZZA STEFANELLI, 5c+, 12m: placca verticale e tecnica.
35. IL TRONO DI PAT, 5b, 10m: placca a grossi buchi.
36. MUFFLETTO LOVERS, 5a, 10m: diedro e muro breve.
37. IL BUCO DEL DIAVOLO, 5b+, 10m: camino e placca.
Seguire le indicazioni per Caposele Climbing Area – Falesia di San Vito (
clicca qui) o per la Chiesetta di San Vito (
clicca qui).
From the Fondo Valle Sele (Expressway/SS691), coming from Lioni or Contursi, take the exit for Caposele – San Gerardo; at the roundabout, follow the signs for Teora.
Continue towards the PIP Petazze Area; after passing the PIP Area, when you reach the intersection with State Road 165, continue straight for about 1 km until you encounter a steep road descending on the left, right by the rock monolith. Proceed for a few dozen meters until you reach the parking areas near the monolith and along the road.
Although it is possible to comfortably reach the Climbing Area right under the monolith, it is advisable to park campers before embarking on this descent and continue for a very short stretch on foot.
It is also advised not to park in the maneuvering area in front of the entrance of the house adjacent to the Crag.
